Dog Training

What went wrong? How could you have made the dog wait for you to flush the bird for a shot? Is there a type of dog training that will accomplish this? The answer is the “whoa” training.

“Whoa” training is mainly used for bird dogs, but can be used for any dog. This type of dog training is used for backing and “steady to wing and shot”, but is also useful if you just need your dog to stop and stand still at any moment. The goal here is to keep the dog from chasing running birds. The “whoa” command tells him to stop and stand still until given the release command. This type of dog training should not be applied to a dog younger than 7 months. The time up to 7 months should be spent playing fetch and teaching him obedience skills such as “sit” and “here”; you should also be teaching him to heel while on the leash.

There are several different ways to teach the command; the “whoa” post, “whoa” board, barrel training, or rope and sling. We are going to use the rope and sling method. A word of caution though: this should be a positive experience for the dog, do not yell or punish the dog if he does not pick up on it right away. Like us, dogs learn at their own paces, and patience is key.

The basic principal is to have a rope around the dog’s waist and collar>The rope around the dog’s waist discourages him from sitting. When pressure is applied to both the waist and collar he is unable to sit and must stand still, the natural behavior for the dog when given a new command is to revert back to what he knows which is to sit. It is up to us to help the dog separate the commands so he understands that “sit” means sit and “whoa” means stand still.

Attach a clasp to one end of the rope and, using the clasp end, loop it underneath his waist then run it up through the eyelet, pulley or anything that swivels. This can be done in your garage, on the front porch, or by hooking it to the rafters or a beam…anything that is higher than the dog. Take the other end of the rope, after it has been run through the eyelet and run it back through his collar. Hold on to the other end. This way you can walk the dog having control of the rope. Maintain some tension on the rope. The part around his waist should not be loose but not too tight either. Walk him in a small circle until he is comfortable walking with the rope around his waist and collar. Then, give the “whoa” command. As you are giving the command, pull up on the loose end of the rope creating pressure around his waist and collar; forcing him to stop and stand in one place. Then give the release command. This command is just as important as the “whoa” command because it lets him know that he can relax. The release command can be any word that lets him know his job is done; it can also be a light touch to the dog. Try to spend 10 to 15 minutes a day practicing this with your dog.

When you are fairly sure he understands the “whoa” command, you can stop using the eyelet. Using the same technique, with the loop around the waist and a leash at the collar, walk him around the yard or driveway and give the “whoa” command. If he does not stop, pick him up and place him at the spot you gave the initial “whoa” command and repeat the command. This lets him know that he should obey the command the first time. When he is holding on “whoa” leave both ropes loose and walk around him at arms length, making certain he stands still. After a few times, he will stop and you will not have to use the ropes. Try to practice this 2 or three times each time giving the release command.

When you are fairly confident that he understands what is being asked of him, try to walk with him at heel beside you and give the “whoa” command. You should keep walking, and he should stay still. If he tries to follow you, pick him up and place him back at the spot you gave the original command. Say “whoa” again making sure he stops. If he does not, go back to using the ropes until he understands what is required of him. This should be practiced until you can walk a good distance away without him moving. The most important part of this lesson is that he does not move when given the “whoa” command. This process can take a while, depending on your dog and his ability and willingness to learn.

The next step is to try the dog with a bird. You will need a kick cage, bird launcher, or spin the bird to make it dizzy; anything to make the bird stay in one place. A decoy sprayed with scent can be used if a live bird is not available. You also need to use the training collar (shock collar). But instead of placing the collar around the neck, place it around his waist on a low setting. The reasoning here is so he does not associate the “whoa” command with a discipline, or other training, command. Also when the collar is used around the neck and stimulation is applied the dog will turn his head. This is undesirable because his attention should be at all times on the bird and remaining still. Take him out and give the command to find the bird. Once he has found the bird and is on point, give the “whoa” command. Walk around the dog and the bird before you let the bird go. If the dog moves press the button, while saying “whoa”, giving the dog a mild stimulation letting him know that he is to stay still. At this point you can flush and shoot or retrieve the bird; but the dog is to stay on point until the command is given to release, or you have successfully shot the bird and given the retrieve command.

It is very important to praise him for his efforts, even if the flush did not go perfectly. In any dog training session, patience is important. Remember that your dog is doing what comes naturally for him, and his enthusiasm for the hunt is a positive thing. Our job is to channel that enthusiasm and make it work for us for a successful, fun hunting experience.